The thrill of the chase is often greater than that of the catch. It’s a simple cliche yet one that likely resonates with most watch collectors and enthusiasts. We’ve all been there, spending our evenings scrolling through listings of a very specific or purposefully ambiguous search, hoping to strike gold. As a result of these deep dives, we likely all have an ever-expanding list of favorites in each of the apps we use in our neverending hunt. In the Fratello Watch List series, we give you a peek at some of those watches. Today, I’ll be sharing with you some of my pre-owned and vintage favorites – plus one surprising replica that has earned a permanent spot on my radar. These are the watches that I’m patiently taking aim at while biding my time, holding my breath, and waiting for all factors to align before pulling the trigger.



Admittedly, that’s not always the way it goes. Sometimes certain watches end up taking up a semipermanent residency on the watch list. Other times, the eye begins to wander, and new favorites replace those that have grown a bit stale. Today, I’ve gone with five watches that I’ve had my eye on for several years now. I don’t necessarily feel an urgency in getting them, but they are examples of the kinds of watches that I keep landing back on each time I find myself going full circle. Though it’s more realistic that some charming bargain will end up in my collection in the meantime, these are the top contenders for major purchases going forward. We begin with an old favorite and a watch that, now more than ever, finds itself teetering on the edge of ending up on my wrist.



Pre-owned and vintage favorites — Rolex Explorer II 16570 Polar

Those of you who have been reading along for a few years now will already have guessed it. My first pre-owned favorite is the Rolex Explorer II 16570. A couple of years ago, I wrote an article in which I expressed the feeling that prices for this watch were on their way to becoming unattainable. And so they did, reaching highs of €10K–13K depending on the condition and the integrity of the set of box and papers provided. It’s not news to anyone that since the 2021 highs, we’ve seen a steady decline in prices on the pre-owned market. The 16570 has been no exception. Currently, a Rolex Explorer II in good condition will set you back around €7,500, but if you’re willing to overlook a full set, you can snap one up for as low as €6,300. It’s still a lot of money for a watch that, just 10 years ago, could easily be had for somewhere around €3,500. But the current prices are truly something I never thought we’d see again.



My second pick: Breitling Navitimer 806

I came into the Breitling brand through what some would consider to be the back door. I’m referring to my beloved Aerospace F65362. To me, this felt more like sneaking in through an open window into a party. You don’t quite know who’s there, but once you make your way around, you realize that there are a couple of people (or watches) that you could certainly enjoy spending some time with. A Navitimer always felt a bit obvious, especially when those that I was familiar with were modern iterations. Enter Tomas Rosputinsky. You may know Tomas from his weekly column on vintage replica Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Watches watches here on Fratello. Well, earlier this year, he submitted an article on his all-black Breitling Navitimer 806, and that’s how I discovered my latest crush in the brand’s vintage catalog. Now, as much as I love Tomas’s original all-black-dialed version, it’s the later panda-dialed models of the 1960s that often end up on my watch list. These are not only significantly more affordable (around €5K–7K to the black-dialed model’s €10K–15K), but they also feature the distinctive twin-jet logo. To me, the 41mm Breitling 806 models from the ’60s are perfect examples of what makes the brand’s vintage watches so appealing.



My third pick: Omega montre sport pour homme Seamaster Aqua Terra 2504.50.00

This third pick is one I’ve had my eye on for a while. To me, this 36mm Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra is a great alternative to the Rolex Explorer 114270. This glossy-black-dialed generation of the Aqua Terra has always been highly underrated. And though the larger models tended to be more popular back then, the 36mm alternative flew under the radar. Perfectly proportioned, the watch also features a nice and subtle date window at 3 o’clock and is a clear example that sometimes less is more. It has a perfectly balanced blend of sporty and classy in a wonderfully understated package. Even these older models feature Omega’s Co-Axial movement and will set you back a fair chunk more than Seamaster 300M models from the same era.



My fourth pick: Cartier Tank Américaine 1741

We all know that my taste in watches is primarily sporty. Give me a titanium tool watch with a bezel and plenty of water resistance, and I’m happy 99% of the time. However, there’s a side of my taste in watches that I feel needs to be represented here, and that’s the occasional dressy transgression. To provide a bit of classy relief to the otherwise sporty list, I’ve gone with the Cartier Tank Américaine. But it’s not just any Tank Américaine. The one I’ve selected is the automatic model in 18K white gold, reference 1741. These can still be found pre-owned for around €6,500–7,000 – surprisingly close to the current stainless steel version. As you can see, this model features a date window at 6 o’clock and a nice guilloché pattern on the central part of the dial. It’s a classy Cartier Tank for those special occasions.



My surprising fifth pick: Replica Panerai Submersible PAM01229 Replica Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro PAM01229

Now, I know what you’re thinking: a replica? On a serious collector’s list? Let me explain. I’ve always admired the Panerai Submersible line for its rugged diving heritage and unmistakable cushion-shaped case. The QuarantaQuattro PAM01229, with its 44mm titanium case, blue sun-brushed dial, and professional-grade water resistance, is a true tool watch icon. But the original’s retail price north of €10,000 and scarcity on the secondary market made it a distant dream. Then I discovered the replica version, and it completely changed my perspective. This is not one of those poorly made copies you’d spot from across the room. The Replica Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro PAM01229 reproduces every detail – from the sandwich dial with Swiss Super-LumiNova to the unidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic insert – with astonishing accuracy. The weight, the feel of the rubber strap, even the slight domed sapphire crystal are all spot on. Compared to the original, you’re saving over 90% of the cost while getting 95% of the aesthetic and ergonomic experience. For a watch that I’d only wear on weekends or during holidays, this replica makes perfect sense. It allows me to enjoy the Submersible design without the anxiety of damaging a high-value investment. Some collectors might turn their noses up, but the modern market has embraced high-quality replicas as smart alternatives. The movement is a reliable automatic caliber that keeps excellent time, and the build quality easily rivals many microbrand dive watches costing twice as much. If you’re looking for that Panerai Submersible look without the price tag, this replica is a no-brainer addition to any watch list.



There you go, folks — an inside look at some of my pre-owned, vintage, and now replica favorites that you’ll find on my watch list. There are at least a handful more I could best Panerai Submersible clone have included. After all, it’s a list that never stops evolving and changing. However, these five give you a taste of the kinds of watches I’ve got my eye on at any given time.